Chaffey Garcia

Yesterday's column covered the Chaffey Garcia house in Etiwanda. It's been beautifully preserved and the custodians are to be congratulated for their work.

The house was the first in the area to have electric light and also they had the longest telephone link in San Bernardino county. The house is only open on the third Saturday in the month so make a note in your calendars to visit it.

Music Track

For this week here is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9OgyQomlmM

It's the adagio from Mozart's Clarinet Concerto. A work of piercing beauty.

It was used in Out of Africa when Meryl Streep and Robert Redford had their picnic.

I've chosen the version by Jack Brymer as it's the one I'm most familiar with. It's no matter that the recording's old as it's not a piece to experiment with, I think.

I do wonder why there is never vibrato in "classical" clarinet music whereas it's always used in other types.

Day 10 of 11 - Kamakura

For our last full day here, we took a trip to Kamakura, which is about 3/4 hour's train ride away. We left at 9:00 which put us well ahead of the weekend crowds - it seems that the early bird still does get the worm out here too. There are three main tourist draws here: The Giant Buddha, a large shrine and also a small shrine up in the granite hills. We decided to do all three.

The small shrine has a tradition that if you if you wash your money here, it will quadruple in value. Now I came here ten years ago and did the entire washing thing, and it didn't work. In view of the slightly damp state of all of us with the humidity, I left the wet money thing alone this time.

We returned to the town via a Starbucks and thence on to the Buddha. It is large; about 35 feet tall. It was also begun in 1252 which makes it older than me! Well, a little bit.

We then went off to the large shrine and enjoyed some very large and colorful lilies growing in the moat area. By now the tourist population had grown and it was hard to take any pictures that didn't have a couple of million Japanese in them. But we saw what we wanted to see and then took off to a small and very nice noodle restaurant.

Japan - Final Thougths

Once again it was a privilege to visit this very foreign country, and I have some thoughts about this particular visit. Taking Evan (15) along made me look at the place a little differently. Since I first started coming here in the mid-seventies there have obviously been some changes. Surprisingly, the use of English has not seemed to have grown. There is less of it around, although many of the traffic signs have some English on them, which was never the case 35 years ago.

At the same time there are a lot more Gauguin (foreigners) on the city streets. In Tokyo, it looked like at least 5% of the population were outsiders. Many of them speak Japanese and do so well. It is a very difficult language, and reading it is almost impossible.

Sailing around the edge of the Izu peninsular, we were struck by the big difference in wealth of the city compared to the country. Tokyo and Yokohama are obviously rich places; the people are well dressed, and the goods in the shop windows are expensive. The country on the other hand has a dilapidated appearance and there is very little in the way of amusement, restaurants or bars. In some places nothing at all. It's not a cultural thing it's a lack of disposable income.

Ten years ago it was amusing to see that the growth of cellphones was being driven almost entirely by teenage girls. They were the ones with their eyes focused on these little devices. Today its spread to everyone. We took an 8:30 p.m. commuter train from Tokyo to Yokohama and everyone was locked in on their cells, texting all the time, and scrolling up and down. They were also anaethsetized to the outside world with iPod earbuds crammed into their ears. It was noticeable that very few read papers or books - ten years ago it was nearly all reading materials.

The costs of everything are magnified by the poor dollar. The rate over the last decade has slipped from about 110 Yen to the dollar, to 80. The formula of knocking off the last two zeros to get an approximate dollar amount doesn't hold up well these days. On top of that this is a very expensive place to visit. Dinner bills are usually about $50 to $75 a head. A glass of beer will set you back around $10 to $20 dollars. Taxis start their meters at about $10.

This is a fine society. If anything, the beginnings of city graffiti have stopped and reversed. There is even less than five years ago. There is absolutely no trash in the streets and the Japanese are obsessed with "separating" their rubbish. No doubt living on a very densely populated island enforces politeness and rule obeying, or war would break out.

The dress code is very strong. As it's the high summer season, "salary-men" are in "biz lite," which is short sleeve white shirts, open necked, with black trousers and black hard shoes. Women in dresses and suits. Children equally well clothed. I have managed to avoid the hot season here before; and it is very hot indeed. A lot of people carry towels to wipe their skin, and it's a good job the trains are all air conditioned.

However it's obvious that the price to pay for such order is more control over the population. As a resident alien, Michael had a visit from a young policewoman, who came round to check a few details on his registration card. She spoke some English and was extremely polite, but insistent that some details were missing and he had to write them on a form. He grumbled but complied.

If the pedestrian light is against you, you do not cross, no matter how empty the road. I did wonder if there might be a fault in the system sometimes, but the Japanese seem to be prepared to wait forever.

We fly back today and arrive a couple of hours before we left! It's rather analogous to the change of cultures we will experience. I'm dreading the jet lag next week.

Japan Day 8 of 11

We certainly changed our seascape view for an urban one. This is the sight from the 68th floor of the Sky Garden building in Yokohama. The elevator takes 40 seconds to get to the top and the views all around are spectacular on a clear day, which this was.

When you live in a small rural community like Big Bear, it's wonderful to be able to visit a well run and organised city, and one with virtually no graffiti.

Today, Friday, Eiko is taking Evan up to Tokyo by train to join some family friends who are taking him to Fuji Park. They have the largest and scariest roller coaster there. I'm glad I'm not joining him! Michael and I will just have to try and amuse ourselves here at base, before we too go up to Tokyo and enjoy an Indian meal tonight. Will Evan's stomach be able to join us too?

Japan Day 7 of 11

We saw Mt Fuji in the last of the setting sun on the way back from last night's restaurant. It's one of the most famous sights in all of Japan and almost of reverential status in the minds of the Japanese; so Evan was lucky.

The following day, Wednesday, I decided to get sunburnt! Obviously without S.W.M.B.O. to assist me, I can't be trusted to live on my own and failed to apply sunblock to parts of my ageing body. We enjoyed a stop at a beach area nonetheless; we anchored far enough away to allow us to pee off the side of the boat without causing offense! After five days afloat, Michael felt he might have to be retrained to use a toilet as he had become almost feral in that area!

We set the sails for the marina and after the usual shouting and swearing - a regular feature of putting up the canvas - we began our homeward bound leg.

Now this takes us across the shipping lanes of huge ocean going tankers plying their trade to Tokyo. These ships are often over 100,00 tons and can move very quickly. Shouting: "Power gives way to sail, old man!" Does not have a lot of effect when they're almost on top of you.

Similarly a Japanese Navy submarine driving full blast down the seaway is not interested in diverting her course. So you better watch out. Halfway across this game of chicken, a Japanese Navy destroyer was obviously set to ram us so we decided to lay off our direction.

He changed direction too, and set us up for some target practise. We shouted and waved our arms: "Excuse me, Sir, you appear to be heading our way!" Or something like that. We laid off again and this time he did not readjust his bearing so we slipped behind him. Just so we didn't forget him we hit his aft wake, which was an interesting experience for those of us lolling on the netting in the bow reading a book. Total soaking, Ha, ha!

We arrived back at the marina and filled Milestone up with 150 litres of diesel ready for her next adventure. We had done about 150 nautical miles and managed to avoid too many risks at sea. Now it's air conditioning, hot showers and city life once more in Yokohama

Business Hours

There seems to be some sort of regulation regarding business hours out here in Japan. Restaurants close at the oddest time of day - like 7 o'clock for instance. They even have a last order time as well, so no sneaking in a big fish fry order at 6:55!

They also close places in the height of the vacation season, there seems to be no rhyme nor reason to it.

We think it has something to do with the lack of disposable income, the lack of foreign visitors - we have met no other Gauguin since our trip on the boat - and also that unions do not allow any expansion of working hours or shifts. So to operate a restaurant for lunch and also dinner you have to be open for eight hours and that means 11 to 7, and no later. Everyone seems to understand the rules and so they concur without a problem.

Ordering Food

We overcame the problem of ordering food last night - technology to the rescue. We arrived in a small fishing port called Koto and docked for the night. Eiko from Yokohama had called and found out that the restaurant closed at 7 p.m. and last orders were at 6:30. More of this curiosity of business later.

Michael had been there before so he knew it was a very popular fish restaurant and not one specializing in chicken entrails with gruel on the side. This might have been the situation the previous night which is why we did not employ the following method to order.

We were seated on the tatami floor much to the amusement of the local diners, who no doubt were equally repelled by the strong "Gauguin" stink emanating from our long day at sea. The little girl came over for our order, and fortunately it was beer to begin with so no problem there. We then asked her if she had English menus, and perhaps Japanese menus in the English language. Ha, ha, fools. Have you got Japanese menus in Big Bear? I don't think so!

So whipping out his iPhone, Michael speed dialed Yokohama and told Eiko to speak to the waitress. This of course, delighted the staff and the other diners. After a few minutes, everyone was smiling and our food was terrific. Sushi, of course, followed by Miso soup, small fishes and then larger ones grilled and full of flavor.

Come 6:50 we had to beg for a final beer and they eventually agreed it was better to break the rules than upset these strange hairy smelly red faced men from the deep. The bill was pretty good too - about $85 for the three of us.

Jazzie

If you think we have been too selfless in allowing the pack to break up, here is a picture of Jazzie the little dog. I think no one with any heart at all could refuse her. So today, she is in air conditioned comfort back at home, while we flog around the Pacific. with empty beer cans floating around the bilges.

Japan Day 6 of 11

It's amazing how life likes to hit you upside the head when you're a laughing and a joking. There were were, deserted by the junior Mrs. Summons and the dog ,and slowly becoming used to it. We had planned an evening out in the fleshpots of Shimoda - in truth a couple of beers at the Soul Bar followed by a nice fish dinner at a really good restaurant we knew; great stuff.!

So we had the beer in the bar, and the owner and I ignored each other after the unpleasant little incident the other evening about opening hours. Honor was satisfied on all fronts. So there we were walking to our second goal and turning the corner, horror of horrors - it was closed. I can hear you saying "no big deal, just go to another." But you see, without the aforementioned Mrs. S. we were lacking in one small talent, the language. Michael can order beer, and get himself home in a taxi, which I think speaks highly of his language skills after living in Japan for 10 years. I can say: Can I have another beer, please. And Evan can say: I'm sorry Master - he watches far too much Japanese anime on TV.

But none of us can order food in a restaurant which lacks an English translation, or even has those nifty little plastic models of food outside the establishment. And Shimoda has no one who talks our stuff. So there we were, stymied. So we settled for a supermarket with air conditioning that would shrink your eyeballs, and splurged on sashimi, sushi, and some ice cream for the boy. We ate this with relish back on board Milestone and it was a pretty good evening after all.

Music Track

This week I've chosen a track - The House of the Rising Sun. Now I remember when it was done by The Animals and you can ask You Tube to perform that original version.

There is even an upbeat version by Dolly Parden - in full Victorian tart costume, no less.

But this week try http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bDW-YQZVLw

It's by Sinead O'Connor and she does it really well with that "clear as a bell" voice of hers.

Eric Burden of The Animals is still around by the way. He still performs the song and sometimes he does it in Pappy and Harriet's in Pioneertown out here in S. California close to Palm Springs.

Japan - Monday Aug 2nd

After a decent night in Ariri we stood on Milestone's deck at 6:15 and contemplated the rising sun. The cicadas were rubbing their little back legs furiously and the noise was all around us. It was hot! Again! We decided that this was not going to be a good spot to remain. Also Jasmine had been panting a lot to Eiko's concern. Jasmine is a six-year old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel who is not at her happiest on the boat. Eiko decided that as they were both city girls, what they both needed was air conditioning and pampering, which they were not getting on the boat.

We therefore decided to head back to Shimoda and let Eiko catch a train back home to Yokohama with Jassie in tow. Both seemed to perk up at the prospect.

Evan took the helm all the way for the three and a half hour journey. I had been concerned that he might get bored just being on the boat for hours at a stretch, but he seems to have got the tempo of the ocean and enjoyed his role and looking at the changing seascape.

We stopped for a small swim en route and deposited Eiko and Jassie as soon as we docked. Waving farewell to them, Michael and I found solace in a some adult beverages. We hosed the boat down and readied ourselves for life minus the distaff side of the family.

We settled on a Lad's Lunch basically from a frying pan. Shot full of heart attack components, we served up mushrooms, bacon (lots of it!) tomatoes, frankfurters and scrambled eggs with bread and butter.

Eiko texted Michael to say she and Jasmine were sitting in an air conditioned first class compartment having had a free drink and some sushi for lunch. Michael and I reached for another cold one! We're hitting the bar and restaurant tonight! Evan did show a slight motion sickness when we first set sail, but I'm glad to say that he's not had any problems since. In fact he's settled into this life well. US Navy on the career list???

Food

We've done pretty well for food so far. We called into Cosco for a big stock up and since we arrived on board Milestone, we've eaten in house all the time - if you include the large plates of sushi brought in from Cosco on Friday.

For lunches we've had soups and big French bread sandwiches with all types of salads and cold meats. Last night, with Ariri being very limited I hit the curry hard. Beef vindaloo and mixed vegetable korma. On the previous night we had steaks fried in butter with new potatoes, onions and zuchini. Tonight we're hitting the restaurants!

Japan Day 4/11

I seem to have lost count of the days. Sunday, for which this is the post is only Day four. So obviously, once again, my arithmetical skills have been called into question. On Sunday morning we left Shimoda at about 7. It was already hot and we cruised down the Izu peninsula and round the bottom tip, to follow the shoreline up along the "Dark Side." Quite why it's called that I haven't figured out.

We stopped at a small bay that was crowded with holiday makers. It was very sheltered and had lots of beach stuff going on - also a raft not too far away. Naturally after we had dropped the anchor a small man in a small boat with a flag puttered over to us to inform us we should not be parked so close to the shore. Eiko pretended to be Korean and we pretended to be her idiot charges, which was not too hard. We ignored him and he went away.

We swam in wonderful water at about 80 degrees. In fact we were in the water so long our hands went all wrinkly! We then enjoyed some al fresco lunch. At about 2:30 we left for our next stop, Ariri, the most typhoon safe harbor in all of Japan.

Hot, I'll tell you hot. Hot is when you tie up at a metal dock under almost vertical granite cliffs, with thick foliage on them. Hot is when there is not a breathe of air inside a harbor so safe it resemble a map of the inner ear. And we were booked there for two nights!

Like most small places, Ariri has very little in the way of amusements. And to make matters worse we were on the wrong side of the harbor. We decided to stay on board as we had an electric hook-up, and that meant fans. Oh the joy! We catered in house and with the fans going all night we actually had the best night so far.